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Green is the new Black: a critical look at Greenwashing in the Organic Industry

By Ananda Mahony

Republish: EasyPublish™
Published: 16Nov2009
Word count: 889
Viewed: 241 time(s)

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Walk down the personal care isle of the supermarket isles and you might see 3 or 4 hair products with "organic" or "natural" ingredients or branded with an organic sounding name. Take a closer look at the label and you will soon realize that underneath the feel good name these products are still made of synthetic cleansers, include artificial fragrances and are chock full of preservatives. True to label claim there may be ½ a percent of an organic essential oil or herbal extract but is this what we really expect as consumers when we read "organic" or "natural" on the label of a product? Practices such as these are known as greenwashing. To be more specific, when a company or organization misleads consumers by claiming have green practices or sell green products without actually having any or limited basis for this claim, this is known as greenwashing.

From a consumer perspective, green is the new black. Companies are jumping on the green bandwagon in an effort to appear more ecologically sound and in many instances, those behind the marketing claims really are making an effort to minimize their impact on the environment. However, in other cases, it is all just a marketing ploy to get consumers on side. In skincare, the issue becomes even more blurred and there are many companies taking advantage of an industry-wide lack of clarity. In the skincare industry Greenwashing can occur in a number of different ways.

1. Using a single environmental claim suggesting that the product is greener than it actually is eg. A shampoo that claims to contain no Sodium Laurel Sulphate (SLS) but uses alternative foaming agents such as Ammonium Laurel Sulphate, which have the same risks associated with their use.

2. Having no proof - for example personal care products that claim to that they are "fair trade" without any certification or evidence. Whiel the certificatio nmay not necessarily be on the lable, upon request from the manufacturer or supplier you should receive evidence of fair trade status.

3. Lack of definition - using terms such as "green" or "natural" without actually outlining what that means. Australia has no set guidelines here, so there is alot of confusion as to what is considered "natural skin care". Again if in doubt, ask the manufacturer or supplier what their guidelines are for making a "natural" label claim.

4. Make "green" claims that are irrelevant. The claim might be truthful, but is also unimportant, eg CFC-free shaving creams. Given that the use of CFC (cholorflurocarbons) has been banned for some time, this claims is considered irrelevant.

5. Outright fibbing about a "green" claim, eg. A product that claims to be "certified organic" when there is no such certification. In many cases the claim isn't so blatant. eg. A certain well known company offers 'a truly organic experience', but also uses SLS, propylene glycol and D&C red dyes in their products, which are not organic. This in not to say that the product doesn't include some organic ingredients but to the consumer, the assumption is that the product is truly organic. http://www.terrachoice.com

As a consumer how do work your way through the fog of marketing greenwash? Firstly, read the labels and full ingredient listing of the products you choose to determine the products full worth. If you are unsure about an ingredient, ask the supplier or seller. Once you know you can make an informed choice about the products you use. Logos such as this indicated organic certification

Logos such as this indicated organic certification

Secondly look for evidence of certification. In Australia, unlike "natural" status we have strict guidelines about "organic" status. If a product claims to be "certified organic" ensure the appropriate certification logo is on the label eg products bearing the logos of Australian Certified Organic (ACO) or the The National Association for Sustainable Agriculture of Australia (NASAA).

Many skin care manufacturers claim that a product is organic or natural without certification but you want to know that the claim is made with integrity. For example, a manufacturer including water when claiming a product is 99% organic when in fact this is a misleading claim. Water does not contribute to the organic status of a skin care product and so should not be included in the percentage claim. If a product claims to be organic, as opposed to certified organic, ask the supplier or manufacture what this means.

Green marketing is a powerful tool of communication for both buyers and sellers. More and more consumers expect to see evidence of a commitment to the environment from manufacturers and the green dollar spend is increasing as a result. If a product isn't green, natural or organic, that's ok but truth in advertising is fundamental to the ongoing growth of the green industry. Without it, consumer cynicism and apathy creep in and we will lose the potential for not just greener products but also a greener earth.

Greenwashing is an issue we now commonly face as consumers however, a little curiosity and some well asked questions will help you to work your way through the marketing maze. Another useful resource is http://www.safecosmetics.org

References: 1. Darbre, P. D., Aljarrah, A., Miller, W. R., Coldham, N. G., Sauer, M. J., and Pope, G. S., "Concentrations of parabens in human breast tumors," Journal of Applied Toxicology, Jan 2004: (24): 5-13.

Your organic skin expert http://vitaleblog.org

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