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Antigua - The Incredible Moving City of Guatemala

By Gary Sargent

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Published: 11Jun2010
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Moving cities are normally reserved for fairy tales; castles in the sky and mythical kingdoms. The last place you'd expect to find such a place would be Antigua in Guatemala, but once you arrive it's not difficult to believe.

Walking down cobbled streets in the chill of the early morning, the sunlight brings alive the colours in the colonial city walls. A mist lies blanketing the lower slopes of the imposing Volcan de Agua that rises above Antigua to the south. Passing churches and grand plazas, you'll suddenly find yourself staring at the crumbling remains of once-mighty buildings, gracefully collapsing between restaurants, hotels and businesses. Words fail to describe the magic of the town.

Its difficult to believe that this sprawling cocktail of influences could have moved location like a travelling circus, but La Antigua Guatemala (or just Antigua for short) has found it difficult to settle in the same place.

Moved by the locals
The first of Antigua's big moves was for social reasons. Originally founded as the capital in 1524 on the site of a Kakchikel-Maya city (now called Iximche), severel Kakchikel uprisings forced the Spanish to consider a relocation.

Moved by the gods
The next location for the capital was deemed to be Valley of Alotenango (Rio Guacalate). The city was formally established on November 22, 1527. Things didn't last long there however, because on 11th September 1541 the site was destroyed by a devastating mudslide from the local volcano.

The golden years
So far spited by the indigenous population and now higher powers, the Spanish persevered. The Panchoy Valley was the next spot picked by the authorities and on March 10th 1543 the current location of Antigua was established. For the next 200 years the city functioned as the centre of government for the Spanish colony of Guatemala, reaching its estimated peak of population at around 60,000, until the next big shakeup.

The capital leaves, Antigua stays
Shakeup it literally was, an earthquake measuring 7.4 on the Richter scale hit Antigua on September 29, 1717. 3000 buildings were destroyed and the government gave serious consideration to moving its base of operations. This decision was made for them in 1773 when the Santa Maria earthquakes destroyed most of the town and the government made the decision to abandon the Panchoy Valley for the safer Valley of the Shrine, where present day Guatemala City stands. Antigua was left deserted with a few hangers-on, adopting the name of La Antigua thanks to its once illustrious glory days as the capital city.

What's left
Antigua may not have ascended to the same hights as in its glory days (the population now is estimated at 35,000) but visitors can still get a sense of the diverse influences that the city has picked up over its years of transience and change. Anyone in town during Semana Santa can witness the incredible processions through streets covered with elaborate and beautiful carpets predominantly made from dyed sawdust, flowers and even fruits and vegetables. Anyone keen to learn Spanish in an immersion environment will also be spoilt for choice, with a wide variety of language schools spread around the city; students and their teachers can often be seen wandering the streets or sitting in cafes conversing over a cup of coffee.

Thousands of travellers that come to Antigua fall in love with its colonial charm and unique blend of old and new. If you are planning a trip to Latin America, make sure to include it on your itinerary and do it soon; you never know when it will get itchy feet and decide to move again...

Gary Sargent is the Managing Director of the tour companies Escaped to Peru and Escaped to Latin America and has lived in South America for over 10 years. Gary is passionate about life here, the people, customs and places. Visit his website to learn more about Guatemala or look at custom tours in Guatemala.

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