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Spy Novels Research In Morocco

By James Marinero

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Published: 29Jan2012
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Why choose to go yacht cruising in North Africa? I cruised the coast in the autumn of 2010, just before the Tunisian revolution, whilst researching locations for spy novels. If you have a yacht and are thinking about sailing in the Mediterranean (or maybe you are already there), then give a thought to cruising the North African coast. Yes, it has some challenges, but then if you've sailed the Spanish Mediterranean coast and the Balearics, you will have learned that coast has its challenges too - not least of which is finding a mooring in high season. It is quite different in North Africa.

Along the African coast, prevailing winds in summer months are broadly easterly, and in the winter season from the west. The autumn is a particularly good time of year to cruise, when the winds are turning to the west and the air is not as stifling as in the summer months - there tends to be a little more wind and therefore less motoring if you are a sailor. Obviously though, the wind direction better suits a West-East passage in this season.

The exotic city of Tangier is the first stop-off as you come into the Straits of Gibraltar approaching the Pillars of Hercules. It is a tourist trap and mooring can be difficult. About ten miles south of the Straits is the development of Marina Smir, Morocco. Part of a fading tourist development, it has plenty of space (even for tall ships) and a good boatyard. If you've never seen a camel in a marina, then you might see one here. Fuel is very cheap compared to the EU.

M'Diq, the nearest town, is about 5 miles away, with plenty of fruit and vegetable markets, butchers and fishmongers. Alcohol can be found, but not easily. It is a very male-orientated Muslim society and public ladies' toilets can be hard to find.

There are other harbours and marinas within a day's sail of Smir, but Smir is a port of entry. Ceuta nearby, and Melilla (120 mls away) are enclaves governed by Spain and part of the EU.

The Moroccans are not very keen on your anchoring - you really should get permission first in port.

Next to Morocco, heading east, is Algeria. Few people cruise there as there are political problems and the coastline is strictly controlled. You could take a leg up from Smir to say, Almeria in Spain. Hopefully, the situation will improve in the near future. Whichever way you go, there will be plenty of shipping to keep you busy.

Tabarka is the first port after you have passed Algeria, just 8 miles over the Tunisian border. It has a magnificent Genoese fort from the 16th century guarding its approaches. The marina, adjacent to the town, is somewhat run down, but the people are very friendly. It can be very hard to adjust to the 'bakhsheesh' culture - basically a gift for services rendered. For example a customs official will ask discreetly if you have 'something to present to him'. Cheap whisky or cigarettes - they can all be given. Obviously, cash is acceptable.

Further along the coast from Tabarka, the marina at Bizerte has been closed for some time for redevelopment, and should be open for the 2012 season, subject to the political issues. A friend visited in late 2011, and told me that the baksheesh culture was still prevalent.

Then, on to Sidi Bou Said. This is one place where you may have difficulty getting a berth. It is close to Tunis, and the former Presidential Palace is about half a mile from the marina. The ruins of Carthage base of the Phoenicians are close by and well worth a visit - truly a great sense of history there. The town itself is a focus for artists. The capital of Tunisia, Tunis is only a short train ride away - a modern city but with lots of soukhs and a great sense of French colonial history. It really is a terrific place for authors of spy novels.

This is not a 'cheap' marina, though costs in general along this coast are much less than in Spain for example. There are French-style supermarkets, and wine and beer can be bought.

Further south from the Gulf of Tunis are Marina Yasmin Hammamet and Sfaxx. The Tunisians as did the Moroccans invested heavily in marinas, though some are not now quite as glossy as when new. Boatyard facilities are good and hauling out is much less expensive than in say Malta, so it is a good location to spend the winter. Tired of the sea? You can always take a trip into the Sahara on a camel! All in all, a fantastic area for authors of thriller and spy novels!

An experienced ocean sailor and cruising yachtsman, the author has sailed for over 40 years. He now writes topical thriller novels and spy novels all with marine themes.

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