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I Love French Wine and Food - A Loire Valley Bourgueil

By Levi Reiss

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Published: 21May2009
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If you are looking for fine French wine and food, you should consider the Loire Valley region of central France. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you'll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a red Bourgueil wine based on Cabernet Franc with perhaps a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon coming from western Touraine in the center of the Loire Valley.

The Loire Valley ranks third in total acreage devoted to vineyards among France's eleven wine-growing regions. At over six hundred miles (one thousand kilometers) the Loire is France's longest river. In encompasses several regions which we list going from west to east. First is the Nantais region whose major grape is the white Muscadet. Then comes Anjou-Saumur whose major grapes are the white Chenin Blanc and the red Cabernet Franc. In Touraine the primary white grapes are Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc and whose primary red grape is Cabernet Franc. Finally comes the Central Vineyards whose major white grape is Sauvignon Blanc and whose major red grape is Pinot Noir. Sooner or later we will review at least one wine from each of these regions.

Bourgueil is a market town surrounded by caves and vineyards. Go north a bit to the Cave Touristique de la Dive Bouteille (Tourist's Shady Bottle Cave) that's full of local wines. Don't miss the Benedictine Abbaye de Bourgueil (Bourgueil Abbey) where according to legend the first Cabernet Franc vine was planted in 1089. Stop by its Musee des Arts et Traditions Populaires (Art and Folk Traditions Museum). Then go about 12 miles (19 kilometers) north to the Chateau de Langeais, a great mid-Fifteenth Century Loire Castle.

Before reviewing the Loire wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Quiche aux Rillettes (Quiche with Coarse Pork Pate). For your second course savor Beuchelle, Tourte aux Rognons (Sweetbreads and Kidney Pie). And as dessert indulge yourself with Nougat de Tours (Tours Nougat).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Yannick Amirault Le Grand Clos Bourgueil 2004 13.0% alcohol about $17

Let's start by quoting the marketing materials. Yannick Amirault is considered one of the best producers in Loire Valley's Bourgueil AC. In fact, French publication Classement (2005) called him the best in the region, commenting in the last ten years, the wines of this domaine have appeared as the most complex and the most consistent of the appellations Bourgueil and St. Nicholas de Bourgueil. The wines of the domaine are characterized by body, cleanness, charm, and in a great vintage, by aristocracy. And now for my review.

My first meal consisted of commercially prepared barbecued beef ribs in a sweet sauce accompanied by rice and Turkish Salad. The wine was round and black fruits predominated. The acidity did a fine job of cutting the grease. This wine was full but short.

The second meal was whole-wheat spaghetti with a commercial tomato spaghetti sauce that I boosted with a medley of garlic, red pepper, multiple mushrooms, olive oil, anchovies, capers, Greek olives, and Parmesan cheese. The Bourgueil was mouth filling, round, and dark. I don't remember when I enjoyed pasta and wine so much.

The final pairing involved breaded fried chicken cutlets, potato patties, and Caponata, a purchased Italian tomato, pepper, onion, and eggplant salad. The wine was dark and round yet it didn't overwhelm the chicken, perhaps because it was fried. It was a good accompaniment to the fruity eggplant salad. I was sorry that I didn't have any fruit-juice candy. The wine was a no-go with pistachio nougat candy.

The first cheese pairing was with a German Emmenthaler (Swiss) Cheese. The wine retained its acidity and flavor, tasting of tobacco and black cherries. Then I tried a goat's milk cheese called Poitou Charente from central western France. The wine was round and relatively powerful.

Final verdict. I was happy with this wine and would buy it again, especially if I could get it at a better price but there are so many Loire Valley wines to taste, not to mention the other wine regions of France.

Levi Reiss has authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but between you and me, he prefers drinking fine German, Italian, or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and the right people. He teaches various classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His global wine website www.theworldwidewine.com features a weekly review of $10 wines. Visit his Italian travel website www.travelitalytravel.com.

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