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A Wine Lover's Weekly Guide To $10 Wines - An Israeli Petite Syrah

By Levi Reiss

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Published: 10Nov2009
Word count: 509
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Like many other countries over the years Israel has vastly improved their wine industry. You can buy Israeli wine at almost any price point, and in a variety of styles. This review looks at an inexpensive Israeli wine made from a relatively unknown grape that has become more popular over the years, Petite Syrah.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Barkan, Classic Petite Syrah, 2005 12% alcohol about $10

Let's start by quoting the back label. Petite Syrah was introduced to Israel via California in the 1960s. It is considered identical to the French variety, Durif. The Winery's vineyards, located in central Israel, produce a wine with deep ruby ruby color, an aroma of red plums and currants, structured tannins in a full body, an elegant finish and superb balance. And now for my reactions.

I first tried this Petite Syrah with a pot roast accompanied by carrots, potatoes, and onions, all cooked slowly in a cup of this wine. The wine was chewy and round and had a decent length. I tasted dark fruit with this mildly acidic wine. When I added a jalapeno pepper condiment the wine did not lose its strength. Petite means little but a better name would be Moyenne, which means middle. I also tasted chocolate. Not only the meat was meaty.

The next meal consisted of long, thin zucchinis stuffed with rice, cinnamon, onions, and crushed almonds but no meat. The wine was lightly fruity and moderately acidic. It gave the impression of dark fruits, especially black cherries. The second plate was a salad of sliced palm hearts, chick peas, frozen peas, and black pepper. Let's be frank. The salad overwhelmed the wine. No, the salad wasn't doused in black pepper. I let the wine sit for a while after the meal and got chocolate with the finishing sips.

My final food pairing involved chicken cooked in a soy sauce, garlic, and dates. It was accompanied by sliced potatoes cooked with the chicken and green beans in a tomato sauce cooked on the side. The Petite Syrah tasted acidic, unpleasantly acidic and was somewhat harsh and thin, but I did get a taste of black cherry. Its acidity softened in the presence of fruit juice candy.

I have an apology to make. In my rush to buy, taste, and review two Beaujolais Nouveau 2008 offerings I forgot to pair the Israeli wine with cheese. By the time I got to the cheese the wine was off. I don't blame the wine for my error (in over two years of wine reviewing I only did this one other time.) But I don't see the point of buying another bottle to complete the tastings.

Final verdict. The Hebrew expression Kacha-Kacha can be translated as So-So. I did a quick search and the only other locally-available Petite Syrah in our price range comes from Mexico. I may put it on my list, but honestly, it won't be a priority.

Levi Reiss authored or co-authored ten computers and Internet books, but prefers drinking fine German, Italian, or other wine with the right foods and people. He teaches computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His global wine website www.theworldwidewine.com features a weekly review of $10 wines and new sections writing about and tasting organic and kosher wines. Visit his Italian travel website www.travelitalytravel.com.

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