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Mediaeval Magnificence

By Mary Smith

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Published: 24Dec2008
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Driving along the D5 road between the Col de la Ventouse and Murol you will pass through some beautiful countryside as you head towards the Sancy mountain range which rises in front of you after a few kilometres. Further on you are treated to the magnificent sight of the chateau of Murol which appears ahead of and slightly below you as you round a bend and start the winding descent into the town of Murol itself. This great brown stone mediaeval castle is one of the finest examples of 13th century military architecture in France, standing on a basaltic outcrop overlooking the town. This elevated position commands magnificent views from all sides (the summit of the main tower is at 950m) and would clearly have been a formidable structure for any invading army to try and penetrate. Since 1889 the chateau has been classified as a 'monument historique' by the French Ministry of Culture.

Today, a group called 'les Paladins du Sancy' run the chateau and stage excellent authentic demonstrations of mediaeval combat, weaponry and horsemanship in the chateaus purpose built arena, which seats over 400 people.

Each week during the school holidays children can attend knights training school in the main hall in Murol where they can make costumes, shields and swords (from scrap materials, I would stress) and learn how to behave like a mediaeval knight. Afterwards the church square in Murol turns into a parade of trainee knights resplendent in their new outfits. Suddenly in the distance you hear the clatter of horses' hooves, growing in intensity as the baron and his men ride into the square. They dismount and each trainee knight is knighted by the lord and handed a certificate to mark their passage into the ranks of the nobility. Quite an achievement for any small child!

Murol (alt 833m/2733ft) is a small mountain village located in the Puy de Dome department of the Auvergne, one of Frances most beautiful regions.

The Puy de Dome is land of extinct volcanoes, lakes and rivers, providing one of the most unique landscapes in Europe. Many of the castles in the area were built by the prominent mediaeval barons as defensive strongholds high up in the mountains, such as Murol.

Located on the banks of the Couze de Chambon at the foot of the wooded Tartaret volcano, Murol is a pleasant place to stay and an excellent base from which to embark on a number of excursions by car, or by foot along one of the numerous and well signposted paths. A number of reasonably priced self 'catering properties and small hotels are available in and around the town.

Murol is also home to the art gallery 'Musée des Peintures de L'Ecole de Murols', (open from 1st June to 31st October from 10.00am - 12.00pm and 2.30 - 6.30pm, entrance €3.50) officially classified as a 'Musée de France'. Situated at the entrance to the 'Parc du Prélong' the gallery exhibits impressionist paintings from several artists who visited the region to paint at the beginning of the 20th century, inspired by the magnificent scenery, and in particular by the attractive winter landscapes.

Close to the gallery is a small cottage houses a collection of local artefacts from the Gallo Romains period (opening hours from 1st July to 15th September 3.00 - 6.00pm).

Murol, with its rich history and traditions plays host to one of the regions most authentic Bastille Day celebrations. Every 14th July, to celebrate the storming of the Bastille in 1789, the people of Murol don the costumes of the nobility, peasants and soldiers from the period. There is a street market, marching bands and many other themed activities throughout the day. You can even partake in a traditional meal based upon a typical menu from the period of the revolution. In the afternoon Marie Antoinette is paraded through the town on her way to the Parc du Prelong where her trial is re-enacted, with typical French farce, culminating in her beheading. The whole day is rounded off with a ball at the Chateau and a fantastic firework display from its walls.

Events in and visits to Murol are inevitably dominated by the chateau. Whether you are a student of mediaeval architecture and traditions, a curious tourist or a parent of small children who dream of becoming a 13th century knight a visit will fulfil your expectations. But, Murol also fulfils the needs of the visitor who wants to explore the region on foot or by car and appreciate everything that this beautiful region has to offer.

Mary Smith has lived in the Auvergne for 4 years and would love you to come and discover this hidden gem in the heart of France for yourself. Mary runs a holiday lettings agency, Auvergne France Homes, providing a large choice of comfortable, reasonably priced accommodation. Come and discover the Auvergne for yourselves =>http://www.afhomes.biz

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