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A cookery course in Le Marche Italy with a difference

By Vincent Sandford

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Published: 28Jun2009
Word count: 512
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Last May 2009, an invitation arrived to act as an interpreter in a cookery course held at the Osteria La Loggia degli Ottoni, Matelica, Italy. Although having two left hands in the kitchen, I gladly accepted the invitation with a hint of excitement. What would be so special about this course? Who would be the participants? How much would I learn? These were all the questions running through my mind.

Our host chef was Claudio Modesti, a local celebrity and entertaining speaker with an impressive resume'. He was born in Esanatoglia in the province of Macerata in the central region of Le Marche Italy, and works as a medical doctor. He is Chairman of the Mycological Group of Macerata, professor of CAMM (association of mycology in Macerata), and a consultant at a truffle cultivation. He is official taster and sommelier of the Association of Italian Sommelier (AIS) and AIS teacher in courses on cooking techniques, food and wine accompaniments in particular with mushrooms, truffles, and vegetables. He has been Chairman of the Commission of Regional AIS Marche Tasting panel, catering consultant and member of the Board of Tasting for Salame di Fabriano.

Claudio Modesti has written three Italian language books: "I mieli uniflorali incontrano i formaggi tradizionali italiani" (editor. Geronimo); "I tartufi in cucina" e "Lo spignolo in cucina: un tartufo epigeo?" (both editor. Hacca). He Has performed as a guest speaker in several conferences related to wine, and in 2008 was featured on Italian television programme Eat Parade , RAI TV on 02 Marche 2008.. Recently, he was also the protagonist on an Italian TV station Canale 5 in a cult programme called Striscia La Notizia where he outlined the use of chemical additives in food. Impressive stuff.

The day arrived. It was a small but interesting group of aspiring chefs. One of the first lessons I learned was the territory around Matelica is not only dedicated to Verdicchio Wine, but the particular morphology of the territory has provided a habitat suitable to nurture the best products like the spreadable Ciauscolo salame, liver sausage and Lardellato. The production of local and excellent cheeses is uniquely combined with honey and Sap, syrup made from the grape must. The territory has shaped the regional cuisine and it became quickly evident and often said by Claudio Modesti, that local products should be used in the preparation of all recipes to obtain the best results.

The organisers expressed great satisfaction on the first edition of the cookery course run by Dr. Claudio Modesti, The course was attended by aspiring chefs from Great Britain, and covered concepts of healthy Italian cuisine, highlighting local produce and quality of raw materials that should be used in the preparation of recipes.

The participants ventured into many historical and recently revived recipes and preparations, and then tasted their own creations in entertaining evening sessions, all without forgetting the combination food and wine.

The course heralded a great success for local products, especially to local delicatessen producer Bartocci of Matelica, now a strong supplier of meats to Osteria La Loggia degli Ottoni where the course was held.

The author Vincent Sandford runs a consultancy agency in San Severino Marche (MC) and may be contacted on +39 0733 645233. Visit his website http://www.hoteldellaloggia.it

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